
Laurel and I were talking the other day, and discovered that we have different approaches to meatballs: I make a big production of the meatballs, and she makes a big production of the sauce. I drooled over her description of her sauce, actually: so much more intriguing than a jar of store brand. What's even worse than my sauce issues, though, is that my meatballs are
such a big production that lately I've just been buying the frozen ones.
Anyway, now I crave meatballs.
Good meatballs, with
fabulous sauce. And it occurred to me: you can freeze meatballs. As long as it's going to be a big production anyway, why not just make a lot, and freeze the extras?
My original recipe comes from our maternal great-grandmother. This is probably the source of my meatball/sauce behavior: her recipe uses canned tomato soup as the sauce. The recipe is designed in such a way that the meatballs themselves transform the sauce - literally, I mean, not one of those food-critic literary wordplays. The meatballs are rolled in flour, browned on the stove, and then plopped in a dutch oven with the tomato soup and put into the oven for an hour or so. The meatballs are very tender and juicy; the meatball juices and the browning-flour leach into the soup, thickening and flavoring it. The meatballs themselves are influential ingredients in the sauce.
But I haven't made the original recipe in years, not since my mother-in-law of Italian descent told me what she puts in her meatballs - lots of garlic and Parmesan cheese. Since then, I've been making what I call "Marriage meatballs" - my Graco's recipe, plus lots of garlic and Parm. In tomato soup, of course.
And yet a third meatball variation I've been wanting to try: this is a longer story. A couple of years ago, we were living in an apartment complex, and some guy knocked on our door. Jerry answered. The guy was selling magazines. After some long negotiations, Jerry agreed to buy a two-year subscription to Rachael Ray Everyday. He bought it for me; he knew I liked Rachael on TV. This was very selfless of him, since he hates her voice so much that even looking at a picture of her irritates him. Sometimes, when he's done something to piss me off, I leave one of those magazines lying around, face up. HAW HAW. Poor guy. What a reward. When the first issue of the subscription came, he growled that he was disappointed; he had really hoped the magazine guy had been running a scam.
So anyway, even though it's not a great cooking magazine - there's a lot of
omg let's be healthy!!11 recipes calling for absurdities such as replacing the milk in your hot chocolate with mini-marshmallows (putatively to cut calories - I would need a whole 'nother post to describe all the things are wrong with that), and froo froo fashion and travel stuff in which I am not interested - we've been getting it in the mail. Sometimes there's some interesting stuff in it. Once, there was this North African lamb slider recipe. I made it, wasn't a fan of the harissa, but loved the cumin/cinnamon/cloves spices in the burgers. Flavors of Morocco, I think it said. I tried it later in a tomato sauce for pasta, and liked it.
So: Morocco! Some internet "research" revealed that there's this spice blend they use, called ras el hanout, which can have like a zillion ingredients, and is different from shop to shop. I mixed some up - that'll be a different post - and used it in another meatball variation.
Today, I made a double batch of the Marriage Meatballs, and a single batch of the Moroccan ones. Not that I think they necessarily make meatballs like this in Morocco, mind you. I wonder what they call American bastardization of their elements of cooking, over there. Ah, well.
I think, for clarity's sake, I'm going to start with the ingredients, before I get into the process.
Graco's Meatballs1 lb. ground beef
1 egg
1/2 onion, chopped
1/4 cup cornmeal
1/2 cup milk
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 tsp. ground sage
Variation: I like Worcestshire sauce, and tend to put it in all things beef. It's been a long time since I've looked at this recipe, and I'm surprised it's not in there. I replaced maybe 1/8 of a cup of the milk with Worcestshire sauce. (Done by pouring the Worcestshire sauce into the measuring cup first, and then filling it to the 1/2 cup line with milk.)
Variation: Marriage Meatballs: Add 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese and 2 tbsp. minced garlic.
Variation: Moroccan Meatballs: Omit sage and dry mustard. Add 2 tsp. ras el hanout, and 2 tbsp. minced garlic. I wanted to use ground lamb instead of ground beef - lamb seems a big Moroccan ingredient, from what I can tell - but the grocery store didn't have any this weekend. My guess is that it's the wrong season, and I should look again in September.

OK. So the first stage of this exercise is to mix all the ingredients. I left the meat for last, and the cornmeal for next-to-last: I'm pretty sure the point of the cornmeal is to react with the milk/eggs/meat somehow, and since I was making a lot, it would take me some time to get things all together. I thought if I added the cornmeal first, it might be sitting there doing its thing for a long time before it was supposed to.
[Pictured here: cornmeal added, but not meat. The double recipe of the Marriage Meatballs, on the right, has been stirred already; the Moroccan Meatballs on the left have not, yet.)

And I left the meat for last for several reasons. One is that I wanted to mix all the other stuff together before trying to mix it into the meat, to make sure it would all get evenly distributed. And because you can mix most of the stuff with a spoon, but once you add the meat, it takes more work to mix. Finally, because I bought one of those big, $1.99/lb., 6-lb. packages of ground beef on discount, and I was going to be guessing how much was a pound. I felt like if I left it for last, I could add what I thought was about right, and then if it turned out too squashy, I could just add another handful of meat. Which I
did wind up doing.
I'm not really sure how you're
supposed to mix ground beef for stuff like this. I find even a sturdy wooden spoon inadequate to the task, and I don't own a stand mixer. (I've read chef-nattering about "overmixing" meat, so actually I'm not even sure if a stand mixer would be any good.) What I do is take off my ring, wash my hands, and stick'em right in there to mix by hand. I recommend being prepared to wash your hands in very warm running water midway through the process; these ingredients almost all came out of the fridge, and it is
cold.

It's going to be squashy, because of the liquids. It makes a very tender, fall-apart meatball. If the mixture is too squashy and fall-apart before you even start making it into balls, add more ground beef, until you feel like your meatballs will hold together through the rolling and frying processes. So really, it does help to have more ground beef available than you think you need. You can always freeze that, too, or make cheeseburgers. I'm going to pack up the rest of it in the freezer, for future sloppy joes.
Once it's all mixed up, I think it's best to set the stage for the rest of the process, so all your equipment is prepared before you actually need to use it. There are two stations: one for flouring, and one for frying. All the flouring station needs is your meatball mixture, a bowl of flour, and a plate to put the rolled, floured meatballs on. You can move the plate at will to the other station, when you're ready to fry those meatballs.


The frying station needs your frying pan, your oil, a slotted spoon to fish the meatballs out with, and some paper-towel-laden cookie sheets (or something similar) for the meatballs to drain on.
When I was a kid, helping Dad make these meatballs, sometimes I'd have the choice of which station to work at. I liked the flouring one better; it was messier, but it didn't spit hot oil at me, nor did I have to mess with meatballs stuck to the pan, or with trying to get every side of a round meatball to touch the bottom of the flat pan to brown. When I moved out on my own, I tried baking the meatballs, but I was dissatisfied with the results for some reason I have forgotten. It might have involved hamburger grease overflowing my cookie sheet. I also tried deep-frying them in a wok; I liked the resulting meatballs and the ease of cooking them, but I think I wasn't a fan of how much oil I had to dispose of afterwards.

I was going to do the wok method today, since it involves stirring the meatballs in a medium they don't mind moving through, rather than painstakingly rolling them across a flat-bottom pan. But it turns out that using your wok for a Halloween candy dish and setting it aside on a shelf untended for years isn't really good for the wok; it was all grungy and rusty when I pulled it out. I guess I'm going to have to fix that somehow. So for today, I was stuck with a flat-bottom pan.
And actually, it was fine. It turns out that if you just increase the amount of oil you use - I used about a centimeter deep - it's a lot easier. The oil never runs out, so the meatballs never stick to the pan. Because the oil is almost as deep as half the meatball is tall, it cooks half the meatball all at once, so you only have to turn the meatball over once, not endlessly roll it around the pan. It's still messy cleanup because of all that oil and meatball grunge, later, but it came up pretty easily.
Anyway, once you have all that set up, you can start the oil heating, and then go to town:
- Pick off a bit of meatball mixture, and roll it into a ball, maybe about 1-inch or 1.5-inches in diameter.
- Roll this meatball in the flour.
- Place it on the plate.
- Repeat 1-3 until either the plate is full, or you have enough meatballs for a batch to fry.
- Put some meatballs in the pan. Don't fill the pan! You want to leave room, both so that you have room to roll the meatballs over, and so that you don't drop the temperature of the oil too much. I don't really know the details, but if your oil is too cold, it doesn't brown things right. (I've never seen this on beef, but I've seen it on battered shrimp.) Anyway, I put in as many meatballs as fit in a circle around the edge of the pan, and then pushed them in towards the middle, where it was hotter.
- Fry till brown on that side. It'll take a couple of minutes, but I didn't really time it, and there didn't really seem to be any consequences for leaving them a couple minutes more beyond what they needed. I had the heat to just barely under 3 (on a scale of Lo-2-3-4-5-6-hi), and that seemed a pretty good, stable temperature for the long-term frying.
- Roll the meatballs over (I used two spoons for this, though you might be able to use the slotted spoon itself), and fry them on the other side for a few minutes.
- Fish the meatballs out with a slotted spoon, and put them on the paper towels to drain.
- Whenever you have a few minutes (like while the meatballs are frying), roll and flour more meatballs. You could also have a buddy doing that; it would save a million trips back and forth from the sink, washing your hands.
- Repeat until all the meatballs are cooked.

In Graco's original recipe, you put the meatballs in the oven for another hour afterwards, so I never worried about whether they were cooked through or not. (In the less-oil browning method, I rather suspect they weren't.) But I cut one of these open - one of the larger ones, from a batch I didn't cook as long; that would be the most likely to be not fully cooked - and it was, in fact, cooked in the middle. So these guys could really go in a sauce at nearly the last minute, if they had to, and just heat up, and be fine.
This makes a lot of meatballs. The three batches filled up the two pizza pans I set out for draining them on. Possibly overflowed, actually; I packed up the Marriage Meatballs into 3 quart-sized freezer bags before I started the Moroccans, which I put into 2 quart-sized freezer bags. They weren't all on the pizza pans and paper towels at the same time, is what I'm saying, but they definitely would have at least filled them up, which is why I cleaned up the one before starting the other.
A single batch of meatballs should feed at least four, possibly six to eight, depending on what you serve it with. It took me all morning to make the triple batch; it would have gone faster had I used two pans instead of one, or only done a single batch, or had a second person at one of the stations. But it couldn't possibly have taken less than an hour, even for two people and a single batch; and then you still need the sauce. As previously mentioned - big production.
UPDATE: First pass at the Moroccan meatballs
here.